Repurposed Windows to Picture Frames

Repurposing materials is all the rage right now. I particularly enjoy repurposing because its good for the environment, extremely cost efficient, and, usually, the end product is superior in quality than a new affordable product.

In search of unique ways to frame photos, Judy stumbled upon a repurposed window used as a picture frame. Immediately, we wanted to take on the project. We kept an eye out for windows, but didn’t come across any until a few months later, I pulled out of my garage on my way to work when I noticed some windows my next door neighbor tossed in the alley. Put the car in reverse, hopped out, and picked up four windows.

The following weekend, we made these wonderful pictures frames for a total of about $20:

Materials

Used window

Pictures

Fabric (measured to fit)

Tools/Supplies

Staple Gun

Staples

Drill

French Cleat or Frame hanging kit

Tape or safety pins

Pictures

Step 1: Prep Work

Dirty Windows 

The windows I found were dirty beyond belief. I did my best to scrape and scrub the frame and glass before using a solution of vinegar and hot water to further clean the frame and glass. Once satisfied, I gave the glass a once over with some Windex.

I also made an attempt at stripping the paint, but ultimately decided to keep the original for more of a rustic look.

Stripped Paint

Pinned Picture
(My Father Building an Entertainment Center circa '83)

Taped Picture

Step 2: Place Photographs

Originally, our idea was to safety pin the photographs on to the fabric. This truly tested our patience. For the second frame we opted for the more practical, but less attractive, option of using tape. This worked fine, but I’d really prefer something else. I have a suggestion of what you can do below in the “If I were going to make this again” section.

Back of Frame

Step 3: Attach Fabric with Staple Gun

At JoAnn Fabrics, my wife and I looked through various materials to use as a backing. A burlap material with a chevron print stood out to us. Another option is wall paper samples behind the photographs. Most wall paper companies will mail out free samples on their website.

Cut the fabric so it clears about an inch outside of the glass. This can be cut down later if it protrudes. Start at the corner and staple down the fabric. Continue this process until one side is stapled. Next, do the same on the opposite side, but be sure to keep the fabric taut.

Step 4: French Cleat Attachment

Cleat on Wall

One of the last steps is to attached the french cleat. Decide where to hang the piece and, if possible, hold the frame against the wall and use a pencil to outline where the top corners will be. Then measure the window to find center and note the measurement. Using that measurement and the outline on the wall, mark the center point of where the cleat should go. Put the cleat on the wall and mark where the holes will go. Be sure the cleat is level. 

Cleat on Back of Frame

Using a drill, drill suggested guide holes from the directions on the back of the product into your wall. I enjoy using OOK’s French Cleat. It is available at most big box stores and Michaels and runs about $7. Repeat this process on the window frame.

Step 5: Hang

Finally, hang the piece and enjoy!

If I were going to make this frame again...

• Recently, we took a trip to Habitat for Humanity’s ReStore. It’s a great place to search for odds and ends. I noticed they had a few old windows and doors that could be repurposed. Check it out if you’re in need of used windows.

• We tried to pin our pictures to the first window and taped the pictures to the glass on the second frame. This works well, but a complete pain to remove or rearrange the photos (especially since we stapled the fabric to the window).

• I recommend finding an alternate method of attaching the fabric to the windows. Once the fabric is stapled to the back of the window, it will be difficult to change out the photos in the future. An idea I had, but did not execute, is to upholster a thin piece of wood sized to fit the window. Then attach the photographs to the upholstered piece of wood and clip the wood behind the window with a few finishing nails hammered in at an angle. This will make it much easier to swap out photos.
  
  
  
  
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DIY Crate Coffee Table

“Are you sure we can pull that off? It looks a little difficult and what if it’s the wrong size? Is it even durable?” I casted my doubts to my partner after she suggested we make a coffee table she came across on Pintrest. That conversation took place over a year ago and I had no idea that I’d be hooked. A DIY fiend, I have become.

In this post, I delineate the steps of creating your own crate coffee table along with some of the things I’ve learned through the process. Also, there is a video of assembly here.

Optional Insert (unstained)

Supplies

1. Four (4) crates* (available from Home Depot, Michaels, and other locations)
2. Quarter of a ½” plywood sheet
3. Four (4) 3” casters** (available from Ikea or HD)
4. Stain
5. Polyurethane (recommended)
6. Spare wood
7. Wood Glue
8. Wood screws (30+)
   
   
   

*Michaels typically has the best price and often has coupons to reduce the price further.

**This is the most costly aspect of the project and optional if you don’t want the table to move

Tools

Unstained - Alternate View

1. Orbital sander
2. Circular Saw
3. Drill
4. Paint Brush 
5. Foam Brush

Step 1: Prep/Sanding

Remove the affixed price tag from the crates. It doesn’t have to be immaculate, the sander will take care of anything not removed. I recommend sanding the inside thoroughly. The roughness of the wood on the inside makes it difficult to stain. Essentially it doesn't matter too much if the inside is not sanded down completely, but it does make staining a bit easier.

At this time, cut a 9"x9" square of wood. I used an old wine box cover from Binny's They sell them for $2. This step can be skipped. Cut the piece into three 3"x9" slats. These slats will serve as the center cubby.

Step 2: Staining

After sanding the lumber, wipe down the lumber in preparation for staining. Use compressed air to remove pesky saw dust. We played with a couple of stains before deciding on carrington, one of our favorite stains. Make sure the work area is free from anything that can be damaged by the stain. Trust me, stain will get everywhere. Using a brush, apply the stain and wipe off immediately with a clean rag. The longer stain sits on the wood, the darker the wood will get, but less grain will show. I work my way from inside the crate and wipe off any stain that makes its way to the outside of crate. 

Step 3: Polyurethane

I used polyurethane to make sure that cleaning the table would be a breeze and for durability. We've had our table for about a year and it is holding up nicely. Decide which side will act as the top of the coffee table. I try to pick the most aesthetically pleasing side and also make sure the inserts will fit. Sometimes the inserts will not fit because the boxes do not line up properly). Using a foam brush, apply the poly evenly. Try to catch any drips that fall inside with newspaper. Also, carefully apply poly to the knots in the wood. Poly tends to turn a blueish color when it dries and will settle inside the spaces if not remedied.

Use two screws to secure the boxes

Step 4: Assembly

Boxes - Using wood screws attach one box to the other as pictured. Continue until all four boxes are attached. I used two screws towards the top of the table. Drill guide holes and hold the boxes firmly together while drilling.

Base - Once the boxes are attached, flip the table and screw in the base. Be sure to pre-drill holes and drill into the thickest part of boxes (the short edges). I made a mistake and screwed through one of the thinner pieces of wood. It now protrudes and could be a hazard.

My attempt at gluing the slats (look at the very top)

Casters - Pre-drill holes for the casters. I like placing my casters about 1" away from each corner. 

Inserts/Cubby - Use wood glue to secure the insert to the box. It's not easy to do, and I'm sure there's a better way to do this. Once the slats were in place, I placed a drill inside the cubby to keep the slats pressed down while the glue dried. 

Once the glue is dry, the table is complete. Enjoy!

If you liked this project please subscribe and follow me. Also, this month to kick off my blog, I'm going to have a give-away. One lucky participant will have a chance to win this coffee table (A $200 value).  See details on my wife's youtube page. 

Giveaway Requirements:
1. Subscribe to my wife's youtube channel
2. Subscribe and comment to this blog post
3. Repost my blog on Facebook or instagram using the hashtag #BreakingDIYGiveaway

Rules:
Winner must live within 20 mile of our neighborhood for local delivery. If winner lives further than 20 miles, winner will have to arrange for pick up. Winner will be selected on March 22, 2015. Good luck!

Final Product

If I were going to make this table again...

Babies love this, but it's totally not baby safe. 

• On our first try, we skipped the insert and the base. The table has held up for over a year and only needed some tightening. I would op for the base, but measure carefully!
• We also opted for the KALLAX casters for further support. A problem we incurred is the screws penetrated the wood further than expected to secure the wheels. This is okay since we don't have kids and we typically load up decorations over the screws. With no plywood base, the table doubles as a baby walker. 

Stay tuned for my next project!

Black Pipe and Lumber Dining Table